Hazara

The district of Hazara extends north-eastwards into the outer Himalayan Range, tapering to a narrow point at the head of the Kagan valley. The mountain chains which enclose Kagan sweep southward into the broader portion of the district, throwing off well-wooded spurs which break up the country into numerous isolated glens. Approaching Rawalpindi district the hills open out, and rich plain lands take the place of the terraced hillsides and forests of the more northern uplands. The Babusar Pass at the head of the Kagan valley marks the most direct approach to Chilas and Gilgit from the plains of India.

The region of Hazara is like a door to heaven, opening up to visitors a world replete with natural beauty. It was a favourite gateway from the plains into Kashmir during Mughal, Durrani and Sikh rules. It is a large area some 10,000 sq. km. The world famous Karakoram Highway starts from Havelian, a town in this region at a distance of 101 km from Islamabad. The mighty "Lion River" Indus or Abasin flows through the entire length of Hazara. It is strategically located between the Northern Areas, Azad Kashmir, Punjab and the rest of the North West Frontier Province. Hill stations collectively known as the Gallis and the Kaghan valley are the best known parts of Hazara. Pakistani and foreign tourists throng its cool and serene valleys during sizzling summer.

The ancient history of Hazara is not traceable because it is shrouded in the mists of innumerable centuries. The historians have recorded different traditions among the people to construct its history. But due to lack of authentic evidence nothing can be said as a final word. Hazara seems to have been inhabited by man from times immemorial.

Hazara has a very old history in Sub-continent. Its geographical boundaries had constantly been changed in the times of various Rajas, Maharajas and Kings in the past. Alexander the Great, after conquering the northern India, established his rule over a large part of it. He handed over this area to Abisaras the Raja of Poonch state. In those days this area was known as "Arasa" and later on was named "Rash".

During the Mauryan dynasty, Hazara remained a part of Taxila. The Great Ashoka was the Governor of this area when he was a prince. After the death of his father, Bindusra, Ashoka ascended the throne and made this area along with Gandhara valley major seat of his govt. The famous edicts of Ashoka inscribed on three rocks near Bareri hill, beside Mansehra Town, are the evidence of his rule here. These edicts prove that this area was a famous religious centre. From ages, the devout Hindus after climbing up the Bareri peak performed religious obligations to "Sheva".

In the second century AD, a mythical Hindu king, Raja Risalu, son of Raja Salbahan of Sialkot, brought this area under his sway. The local people consider him as their hero and even today parents narrate to their children the stories of Raja Risalu and his wife Rani Konklan in the winter nights.

When a Chinese pilgrim Hieun-Tsang visited Indo Pakistan Sub-continent, this area was under the control of Durlabhavaradhana, the ruler of Kashmir. It is also said that Turkey Shahi and Hindu Shahi dynasties ruled Hazara one after another. Among the rulers of Hindu Shahi dynasty Raja Jaipala was the most prominent. Mehmood of Ghazni defeated him during his first Indian campaign. Mehmood paid no attention to Hazara for establishing a Muslim rule over there except using it as his approach to Kashmir.

Again in the 11th century A.D. after the fall of Hindu Shahi dynasty, the Kashmiris occupied this area under the leadership of Kalashan. From 1112 to 1120 A.D. King Susala ruled this area. In the last quarter of the 12th century A.D. Asalat Khan, a general of Mohammad Ghauri, captured this area but soon after Ghauri's death the Kashmiris, once again, occupied Hazara.

Thereafter, the history of Hazara is obscure up to 1399 A.D., when the great Muslim warrior Tamerlane, on his return to Kabul, left here some soldiers for the protection of this important route between Kabul and Kashmir. By this time, the Muslims ousted the Hindus from power and established their authority. In the beginning, Hazara remained under the direct control of Kabul. But in 1472 A.D. Prince Shahab-ud-Din came from Kabul and established his rule here. He founded the state namely Pakhli Sarkar.

During the Moghul period the local Turk chiefs acknowledged the authority of the Moghuls. During the last days of Akbar, the Turk chief Sultan Hussein revolted against the Moghuls. The Moghuls exiled him after crushing this revolt but later on they pardoned him and handed over his state back to him.

The first quarter of the 18th century became miserable for Turks because their rule came to an end due to the decay of their vitality, and the increasing aggression of the Pakhtoons and their allied forces. The most crucial attack was that of the Swatis under the command of Syed Jalal Baba in 1703 A.D. They ousted the Turks from upper Hazara (Mansehra) and captured it. While Jadoon's and Tareen's captured lower Hazara i.e. Abbotabad and Haripur; the Tanolis had already established their authority over Tanol who later on founded a state namely Amb state.

When Ahmad Shah Durrani extended his Kingdom to Punjab and Kashmir, Hazara also came under the control of this new invader. The Durranis controlled Hazara through the local Khans. In the beginning of 19th century their power weakened which opened the way of revolt against them. They sent many detachments of troops to maintain law and order but rather their control decreased day by day. When the Sikhs rose in power under Ranjeet Singh (1777-1838) they asserted themselves independent of the Durranis. Ranjeet Singh organized his army on modern lines and then started to extend his regime over a vast area.

The Sikhs got hold of Hazara in 1818. A.D. after a stiff resistance from its inhabitants. Soon after the Sikh's annexation of Hazara to Punjab, Syed Ahmad Shaheed along with the "Mujahideen" appeared on the soil of Hazara. He fought many battles against the Sikhs. But at last in 1831, along with a number of friends the Sikhs martyred Syed Ahmad and strengthened their hold in Hazara.

After the death of Ranjeet Singh, disintegration of the Sikh state started due to which the British annexed this state to their dominion. On 19th March, 1846 an agreement was signed between the British and Raja Gulab Singh according to which the latter took Kashmir and Hazara from the former for rupees 75 Lacs. But due to widespread civil disorder and resistance movement, Raja asked the British govt to takeover Hazara in exchange of the Jammu Jhelum belt. The British accepted this offer and took over Hazara from him. They deputed James Abbot to Hazara to restore peace. At first the British faced no resistance here except that of Chuttar Singh, a Sikh general, but after three years Zaman Shah of Kaghan turned against British who deprived him of his estate and exiled to Pakhli plain. After four years of British forgave him and he was permitted to get back his lost estate.

Unlike the people of the settled areas, the Pakhtoon tribes that lived on the western outskirts of Hazara, remained a constant source of trouble for the British for four decades (1852-92) The British sent more than four expeditions against them and ravaged Black Mountains many times. To maintain peace in the area, the British also took preventive measures having conferred titles on the leading persons.

After their advent, the British declared Hazara as a district, divided into three tehsils i.e. Mansehra, Abbotabad & Haripur, and annexed it with the Punjab. In 1901 NWF Province was formed. Hazara was separated from the Punjab and made a part of NWFP.

During the British period, Hazara remained in the forefront of various religio-political movements in the Indo-Pakistan Sub-continent. The people of this area joined the ranks of those Muslim freedom-fighters who wanted to strengthen the cause of Islam. The people of Hazara joined the Khilafat movement zealously. Consequently, Hazara became quite unruly. The people refused to acknowledge the British rule having selected their own functionaries in different villages. The British took strict measures to bring them under their control.

When the Muslim League started its movement for a separate homeland, the local people joined it and struggled for liberation from the alien rulers under the leadership of Quaid-e-Azam and got victory against them, culminating in the creation of Pakistan, and independent state for the Muslims of the Sub-continent.

During the elder Bhutto's regime Hazara was upgraded to a division-level comprising two districts namely; Mansehra and Abbottabad. Later on, Haripur was also upgraded to the level of district of Hazara. Still later, Batagram was also given the status of a district. Today, Hazara is a place of scenic beauty. During the summer, people come here for recreation from far, flung areas of Pakistan as well as the rest of the world. They feel peace and tranquillity here.

The city of Abbottabad was founded in 1853 by Maj. James Abbott, who was the first Deputy Commissioner of Hazara District. Hazara remained a District right upto its conversion into a Division in 1976. In October 1976, Mansehra was given the status of a full fledged District, which consisted of Mansehra and Batagram Tehsils. Subsequently in July 1991, Haripur Tehsil was separated from Abbottabad and made into a District. Thus only the old Tehsil of Abbottabad remained, which was declared as Abbottabad District.

Abbottabad itself is a small neat and clean town in spacious valleys surrounded by green hills. It is a popular summer resort, located at the end of Murree-Abbottabad hill tract, noted for its verdant parks, gardens, golf course and pine covered hills. Abbottabad, apart from being famous for its educational institutions and Military Academy, also serves as the gateway to almost all-beautiful places in Pakistan. The formidable Karakorams & the enchanting Himalayas can be approached from Abbottabad. Though the importance of the city has been diminished a little by the completion of Karakoram Highway because, in the past, the only track available to reach Karakoram was through Babusar Pass, which in its turn, could only be approached through Abbottabad.

In spite of this development, the city continues to be a transit city for the tourists. Abbottabad is the junction from where one can go to places like Hunza, Gilgit, Skardu and Indus Kohistan, of the Karakoram Range. One can reach Swat, Swati Kohistan, Dir and Chitral of the Hindukush Range. And one can approach Naran, Saif-ul-Muluk, Shogran and Babusar Pass of the Himalayan Range. Neelum, Lipa and Jhelum Valley of beautiful Azad Kashmir are also connected through Abbottabad. While other hill stations are deserted during winter this place has visitors due to the bracing winter. The place has beautiful gardens, Jinnah Garden, Ladies Garden and another garden maintained by the Cantonment Board. To the splendid stretch of turf with plenty of room for polo, football, hockey and golf. At the back of the station to the west is the Brigade Center, ideal for walks and picnic.

The Cantonment area of Abbottabad is still very British. The European bungalows, the club, the church and cemetery are still there. Abbottabad is an hour's drive from Nathia Gali, the summer capital of the North West Frontier Province, which is from Nathia Gali to Abbottabad is about 34 km dropping steeply through the beautiful valleys with few trees to the river bed.

Located at 81 km from Islamabad on Hasan Abdal-Abbottabad road, Haripur was founded in 1822 by Hari Singh, a general of Ranjit Singh's army. He was the Governor of Hazara in 1822-23. A fort built by the Sikhs called Harikishan Garh is at present being used as a police station. There is also a British cemetery.

About 94 km from Islamabad, west of Haripur is the world's largest earth-filled dam. It was constructed to tame the mighty Indus at Tarbela. It is one of Pakistan's Geotechnical wonders. It has the largest electricity generating power in the world and its two spillways are also the biggest in the world. The dam is really immense and very impressive to visit especially in late summer. It is an excellent spot for a day trip.

Thandiani means "cold" in the local language. Therefore being a cool place it got the name of "Thandiani". It is 2700 meters above sea level on a small plateau surrounded by pine forests. This beautiful spot can easily be approached from Abbottabad, which is 24 km away. It is totally unspoiled and has the loveliest of views of all the hill stations of Pakistan. The scenery here is breathtaking and superb.

Nathiagali clad in pine, walnut, oak and maple trees, is the prettiest hill resort in the Galiyat region. It can be approached both from Murree and Abbottabad. It is 34 km from Abbottabad as well as from Murree. Nathiagali is 2501 meters above sea level and is surrounded by lush green lofty mountains. The British tried to create a little England here with its small timbered churches, parks, bungalows and the Governor's House. Breathtaking landscapes, spring water and fresh air make it one of the most peaceful hill stations in Pakistan.

This beautiful tourist resort is situated on the slopes of Mukshpuri Hills. The hills are wooded and present a beautiful view. Behind.Dungagali stands Mukshpuri, one of the highest peaks in the area (2800 m).

A cluster of four small hill stations of Khanaspur, Khairagali, Changlagali and Ghora Dhaka is called Ayubia and was named after President Ayub Khan who belonged to Haripur district of Hazara. The complex is spread over an area of 26 km. The central place of Ghora Dhaka has a chairlift, which gives a panoramic and mesmerizing view of the surroundings.

Mansehra is named after Man Singh, its Governor General under Ranjit Singh. This town is at a distance of 24 km to the north of Abbottabad. It has a very lively bazaar. The major tourist attraction of Mansehra are the three granite boulders on which edicts of Ashoka the Great have been inscribed. This great Mauryan king ruled this area in the 3rd century BC. After his conversion to Buddhism he tried to dictate a new morality based on piety, moderation, tolerance and respect for life.

Out of the numerous beautiful valleys of Hazara, Kaghan is the most attractive of all. It is a holiday retreat with an alluring scenic beauty. Towering peaks of Himalayan Range, glaciers, water falls and crystal clear water of the lakes are still in a pristine state and make the valley an unspoiled paradise. The 161 kms long landscape of the Kaghan Valley with its towering Himalayan peaks, peaceful lakes, majestic glaciers and splashing waterfalls is a scenic wonderland, ending northwards in the 4148 metres (13,600 ft) high Babusar Pass. Jeep service is available in the valley during summer, while motels and rest-houses offer comfortable accommodation. There is a PTDC stopover Motel in Bellyached and a big tourist resort in Naran which provides excellent accommodation with meals at reasonable rates. It is an ideal area for trekking and trout fishing. The adventure begins in Bellyached, a charming mountain village, from where a road climbs 34 kms up to Shogran. At a height of 2,362 metres. Shogran has thickly forested slopes and grassy meadows, which present an ideal setting for your first stopover.

The raging Kunhar river accompanies the steep winding road which leads to the Kaghan village. The river is plenty of Trout Fish and has the villages of Balakot, Kaghan, Naran and others on its banks. The nomads take their flocks of cattle to the high pastures of the Kaghan valley in spring and bring them down again in autumn. Their women are colourfully dressed. This little village, after which the valley has been named, is only 61 kms from Bellyached. Between Kaghan and Naran there is a distance of 25 kms. Naran serves as the base-camp for excursions to other valleys, lakes and peaks.

Balakot is the gateway to Kaghan valley. Balakot itself is 72 km from Abbottabad. This beautiful small town is located on the banks of Kunhar river. Journey from Abbottabad to Balakot is a charming experience. The road passes through beautiful green hills and thick forests. The views are spectacular especially between Attarshisha and Garhi Habibullah. A famous battle was fought here between the Sikh Army and Mujahideen in 1831. The Mujahideen leaders, Hazrat Syed Ahmed Shaheed and Hazrat Shah Ismail Shaheed lie buried here along with other martyrs.

Shogran, one of, the most beautiful plateaus in the whole area is situated at a distance of 33 km from Balakot via Kawai. From there a jeep track leads to this tranquil summer retreat of superb climate and spectacular views. The air is impregnated with the scent of flowers and the pine forest around. It is at an altitude of 2326 m and mighty peaks of Himalayan Ranges such as Musa ka Masalla (4419 m) and Malika Parbat (5290 m) are visible from here.

Shinu, just beyond Paras is known for its trout hatchery of the Fisheries Department. It is from this hatchery that brown trout and rainbow trout are stocked into the upper Kunhar river and the lakes Saiful Muluk, Lulusar and Dodiputsar.

Just beyond Shinu, Jared is a small village, about 40 km from Balakot. It has a state run Handicrafts Development Centre. Articles produced at Jared include traditionally carved furniture, hand-made woollen shawls and namda rugs which are famous throughout the Kaghan valley.

About 86 km from Balakot lies Naran, the main attraction of the Kaghan valley. This town is situated on the banks of Kunhar river at an altitude of 2498 m at a point where the valley widens. The river is wider and quieter here. There is a very good view downstream, with some tree-covered islands in the foreground. It is a starting point for lake Salful Muluk, Battakundi, Lalazar Plateau, lake Lulusar and Babusar Pass. Outstanding attraction of Naran is its air of peace and serenity.

Only 10 kms from Naran, this lake is 3200 metres (11,000 ft) high, providing an awe-inspiring view of Malika Parbat (Queen of the Mountains) 5,260 metres high (17,500ft). You can go boating on the lake and hear the local legend about Prince Saif-ul-Muluk who fell in love with fairy. The lake and its surroundings have a touch of unreal about them and are breathtakingly lovely. There is a charming legend about a prince called Saiful Muluk who fell in love with a fairy of the lake. The lake is named after the prince. The best way to reach the lake is to walk but you may also take a pony or a jeep.

4146 metres high, this is the gateway to the Gilgit valley. On a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of the towering Nanga Parbat, 8126 metres high. This is the highest point, and marks the end of the Kaghan expedition. It is 80 kms away from Naran. It is on the way to the pass that the Kaghan valley's scenery becomes most dramatic. Battakundi is at a distance of 16 km from Naran and provides access to Lalazar Plateau, lake Dodiputsar and lake Lalusar which is the biggest natural lake in Hazara and the source of Kunhar river. From Babusar Top mighty Nanga Parbat (8126 m) can be seen on a clear day.

On the way to the Pass there are many quaint villages, such as Battakundi, Burawai, Besal and Gittidas, where you can rest. If you have the time, the enchanting Lalazar plateau near Batakundi and Lulusar lake near the Babusar Pass are worth visiting.